Wander & Wonder Travel Newsletter

Hey StoryHunter

800 years ago, one of Europe’s most influential religious figures died in poverty, lying naked on the ground.

You’ve probably heard the name before: Saint Francis, the one who founded the Franciscan order (and inspired city names like “San Francisco”).

To truly understand him, you should go to the Italian city Assisi.

This is where he was born, and every May, the quiet hill town turns into a dramatic stage during the Calendimaggio; a four-day spring festival of music, medieval costumes and torch-lit processions.

You’ll also experience the fierce rivalry between Assisi’s two historic districts... 

(more on that later)

Read on to learn about:

⛪ The chapel inside the chapel
⚔️ Century old rivalry 
☀️ The best sunset in Italy

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Destination of the Week

Assisi is built on the slopes of Mount Subasio, and this small hill town looks almost unreal: pale stone houses stacked above the valley, and the enormous Basilica of Saint Francis watching over it all.

But besides all the chapels and churches, Assisi also holds its fair share of secrets. 

Take for example the remains of a Roman forum; beneath its main square, you can still find traces of the ancient city that existed long before Saint Francis. 

And the Catholic church on the square? It's actually hidden behind the original columns of the Roman Temple of Minerva.

Don't Miss

If you really want to connect with Saint Francis, you need to find the little chapel hidden inside the great chapel.

I know, it sounds weird - like a riddle.

But inside Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, you’ll find what is known as “the Porziuncola”.

Right under the dome is a tiny stone chapel, and it was here that Francis founded his order more than 800 years ago.

It really shows the affection of the guy; instead of expanding the original chapel, they simple just kept it and built a grander basilica around it.

Did You Know?

During the festival Calendimaggio - which runs for four days next week - Assisi is divided into its two historic districts.

The "upper” and "lower” parts fight each other, and the rivalry goes back to medieval times, when powerful local families fought for influence in the city.

Today, thankfully, the battle is more… safe.

Each district tries to outdo the other with processions, music, theatre, costumes, singing and staged medieval scenes.

The whole thing is judged by a jury, and the district that has best captured the spirit of medieval Assisi, wins.

The Trendy Traveler Tip

Most visitors come as day-trippers.

They see the Basilica of Saint Francis, walk through the main streets, take a few photos and disappear before evening (when the most beautiful sunset unveils).

That is your chance.

When the crowds thin out, Assisi becomes quieter, softer and far more atmospheric.

Walk up toward Rocca Maggiore - the medieval fortress above the town - and you’ll get one of the best views in Umbria: stone rooftops, church towers, olive groves and the valley glowing below.